I love my angle grinder !!!Ready to the Motor and BatteriesMotor and Batteries
OwnerIan Goodman
LocationRayleigh, England United Kingdom map
Email email image
Vehicle1992 Peugeot Mountain Bike
I am turning my crappy old MTB that hasn't been used in 8 years, into an electric powered cruiser/chopper scooter. Will be using 28mm mild steel tube to fabricate/lengthen the frame to support motor and batteries.
MotorMY MY1016Z2 Permanent Magnet DC
24V 250W Geared 9.778:1 330rpm
DrivetrainChain drive to original rear wheel sprockets.
Controllerunknown Cheap Chinese Electric Scooter Controller
# Rated Voltage 24 Volts.
# Max Current 16 Amps.
Batteries2 Europa Plus Gel 12V 18Ah, 12.00 Volt, Lead-Acid, Gel
Size: 180mm long, 76mm wide and 167mm height.
Short circuit current 700A.
Internal resistance 12 mOhms
CCA 270A at 0 DegC
Maximum charge current 4.5A
Connect by M5 copper insert terminals
Discharge rate 49.5A continuous for 5 minutes to 1.67Vpc
System Voltage24 Volts
ChargerYi Yun Cheap Chinese Electric Scooter Charger
Cheap scooter charger 24 Volt, 1.6 Amp constant output, auto cut off
HeaterThe British Summer!
DC/DC Converter None
InstrumentationHope to install Volt and Amp meters.
Top Speed18 MPH (28 KPH)
I am going with single gear first to test the performance. But I want to keep the 5 speed derailer in the hopes of effortless inclines and high speed on the flat.
AccelerationShould be quite quick up to 18mph, maybe 6 or 7 seconds?????
Range20 Miles (32 Kilometers)
Watt Hours/MileUnknown, will do some calculations when finished.
EV Miles
Current:1 Miles (1 Kilometers)
Seating Capacity1 adult
Curb Weight80 Pounds (36 Kilograms)
Tires26" MTB
Conversion Time28 hours so far.
The beautiful aluminum motor mount I lovingly crafted from 5mm plate and bent using a sledge hammer, is the wrong height. I forgot to take into account the rear frame and were the chain will be positioned. The chain was only 5mm above the rear frame rail when tight and dragged across the rail with the slightest bit of slack. So using 75mm bolts and lots of nuts, I raised the motor mount so the chain clears the frame easily. This also showed that the steel plate that is welded inside an angle iron frame to create a tray to mount the motor and batteries too, was not ridged enough. I decided that rather than replace it, I used steel bar 5mm X 25mm above and below to strengthen everything. Lots of nuts and bolts but it is not strong and ridged. The back wheel turned under electric power tonight, so only a few hours away from a proper test ride!

First test ride today! It works!!! BUT, the motor twisted under hard acceleration and changed up a gear on the rear sprocket making the chain very tight and curtailing the days session. It was obvious that the motor mount was not substantial enough, so tomorrow I will redesign the mount and it's base to stop things flexing.

I have constructed a new mount from 5mm mild steel plate. I also reinforced the floor of the battery tray, which also supports the motor mount with the same material. The motor is now rock solid. Initial testing showed that useless the chain was very tight, it would jump down a gear when going around corners.

I added a tensioner this morning, from a single gear MTB and what a massive improvement. Top speed is around the 20 mph mark but acceleration and hill climb ability is poor, speed dropped to 12mph on a moderate incline.

I have now been riding around for 5 weeks, over 300 miles. The seating position is very comfortable. I altered the gearing to give 15 mph, but I can still manage a short 18% hill at more than walking pace so I'm happy. Range has been tested to 10 miles with a couple of large hills, approx 80% discharged. Have also done an 8 mile journey on the flat, approx 50% discharged, so usable range, with only minor hills/inclines, should be 14 miles.

code by jerry