Engine bay
OwnerMike Laba
LocationDunedin, Otago New Zealand map
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Vehicle1968 Morris Mini
Two seater Mini after conversion.
MotorAdvanced DC L91-4003 Series Wound DC
The motor is mounted on-top of the gearbox, and direct drive
(through a extra idler gear) to the gear-box.
DrivetrainStandard, only with the clutch and flywheel removed.
ControllerZeva MC600C
Air cooled, mounted directly behind the front grill.
Batteries34 CAM -72, 112.00 Volt, Lithium Iron Phosphate
All 34 batteries are mounted on the floor behind the front
seat, all with no cell modules - so far!
ChargerZivan NG3
230VAC Mains in, output set to 117VDC at 12amps. I also charged
my Mini via our PV panels after our house batteries are charged.
HeaterNone. Not a feature of the original car anyway.
DC/DC ConverterVicor LJTI-EW
80 - 120V in, 13.3V out, up to 100W.
InstrumentationDigital A/Hr meter (JDL-HB 404) for main battery pack, also reads
current, voltage and running time.
Analog Volt and Amp meters for the 12v battery.
Top Speed55 MPH (88 KPH)
Over 90 km/h
AccelerationFine for around town driving.
Range48 Miles (77 Kilometers)
Distance 45 - 80 km depending on speed and terrain
with the 72A/Hr batteries.
Watt Hours/MileOn a flat straight road with no wind at a speed of
30MPH, current
is 35-40 amps @ 105-110volts with two people on board.
EV Miles
Start:69,000 Miles (111,021 Kilometers)
Current:73,565 Miles (118,366 Kilometers)
Total:4,565 Miles (7,345 Kilometers)
Seating Capacity2 adults and now plenty of room in the trunk (boot) because no fuel
tank and I don't carry a spare wheel.
Curb Weight1,411 Pounds (641 Kilograms)
Now less than the original - 580 Kg with the new CAM batteries.
TiresStandard 10" 145/80R10 Power Star, replaced on Feb 2015
Conversion Time2.5 years plus
Conversion CostRather not think about it.
Additional FeaturesJan 2008. Rear stop lights, park lights, number plate lights and
inside roof light have been all upgraded with LED's.

Aug 2009. I downsize the 12V accessory battery with 4 small 10A/hr
Lithium-Iron batteries.

June 2011. Replaced all turning lamps with LED's and replaced the
flasher unit with a moss-fet circuit, current consumption has dropped to about
0.5amps when turning from about 3.5amps. A big saving on power from the 12v battery.

Feb 2013. Replaced the 65/65w headlamps with high efficiency 35/35W
lamps and added a small LED in both main headlight reflectors. I have wired these LED's to
come on when the key switch is on, now called daylight driving lights.
These headlight LED's have already save me from one accident. Small
car ... hard to see.

Mar 2013. Replaced all 4 suspension rubbers, car rides much better
now. The old
rubbers were about 20years old.

June 2014. De-seamed body ... less air resistance at high speed.
Replaced gearbox oil with
automatic gearbox oil (very thin), gears now run easier with less
resistance than the older
thicker oil. Remember the old engine/gearbox oil got very hot because
it was used also to
lubricant the petrol engine.

Nov 2014. I added two more batteries to the main pack making now 32
batteries. Installed two small PV panels in the back window to supplement the 12volt battery
charging.

Sept 2015. Changed the main battery pack volt & amp meters with a JLD404 DC AH meter.
This allows me to see how many amp/hrs I have used per trip and know roughly how far I can
travel.

Sept 2016. Upgraded the controller purchased from ZEVA (Australia). This new controller is
much more efficient than my 18 year old Curtis and does not go into shut-down mode when
going up steep hills also it has a single oscillator frequency, no two step frequency shift as in
the Curtis.

Mar 2017. Change the headlamps to LED's. Purchased the lamps from China 20/20watts much
brighter that the 35watt halogen and uses less current. Been wanting to do this for a long time.
My Mini was first commissioned on 9th July 1998.
My first battery pack were VRLA batteries, 8 x 12v Sonnenschein 70A/hr.

The second lot were 8 x Optima 65A/hr. Fourth lot are what I have now.

code by jerry