|Owner's Other EVs||2007 Black and Decker|
1991 Geo Metro EV
|Location||Kaysville, Utah US map|
|Vehicle||1992 Toyota Pickup |
I have retired this vehicle. All parts are
being pieced and sold off to help fund my
next EV experiments/projects.
|Motor||Kostov ET20/9.0/40 Series Wound DC|
96 Volt 260Amp
178 lb motor
I am running it at 120 volts but it
doesn't seem to care.
|Drivetrain||Original manual transmission and flywheel |
(removed the starter ring gear).
I use all 5 gears and clutch still.
I use Royal Purple in transmission and
0W30 in differential.
Only 400Amp max. It's a little
sluggish starting my truck from a stand
still so I start in 1st gear on hills.
With a super massive 17 lb aluminum
heat-sink, it no longer has overheating
|Batteries||20 Costco/Kirkland Golf Cart, 6.00 Volt, Lead-Acid, Flooded|
Costco sells these 225Ahr golf cart
batteries for $79 each. After core charge
and taxes that works out to $94 each.
|System Voltage||120 Volts|
|Charger|| Home made|
Home made capacitive charger and bridge
rectifier. Charges battery in 5-7 hrs
at 240 volts or 12-14 hours at 120
I monitor energy consumption with a
kill-a-watt meter and TED5000.
Overcharging the batteries every couple
weeks equalized all the cells.
|Heater||I bought a ceramic space heater element |
but never installed it.
I insulated my garage and I survived
winter quite comfortably w/o a heater.
9/25/2012: Failed safety inspection
for no heater. Lame! Remedied by
installing space heater element into
the heater core. Works great but sucks
|DC/DC Converter|| Modified ATX power supply|
I opened up an ATX 400 watt computer
power supply. Connect the 120 volt
battery voltage to where the +&-
terminals of the bridge rectifier meet.
Works great to run all 12 volt systems.
Only cost me $39. Brilliant!
|Instrumentation||Analog volt meter, amp meter (volt meter |
reading shunt voltage drop). They are
installed in the cluster where the gas and
temperature gauges used to be.
All LED lights (less headlamps).
|Top Speed||87 MPH (139 KPH)|
After getting low rolling resistance
tires, top speed went from 70 to 85.
After aeromods, I got it up to 87mph
quite easily. The truck doesn't handle
well driving at these speeds.
I keep it at 55-60 mph just to maximize
|Acceleration||Slow. 0-60mph in maybe 25 seconds. By |
the time I leave the on-ramp and get on
the freeway I can get it up to 65mph so
I'm happy with it.
Passing someone on the freeway going
75mph is a sluggish affair.
|Range||67 Miles (107 Kilometers)|
Thanks to aeromods max range is now
67miles (45 highway miles followed by
22 city miles as battery weakened)
Max range of continuous freeway 55mph
driving is 50+ miles.
Winter driving range is 40 miles.
5/2012: max freeway range is now only
35 miles as my batteries have degraded)
Driving faster (65mph) kills the range
and I can only go about 22 miles in the
6/26/2012 I can drive about 22 miles
continuous and battery is getting low.
Max freeway range is approx 30 miles.
7/20/2012 Weird! Batteries are doing
much better now. All the extra charge
I have been giving them with my
capacitive charger must be doing some
good de-sulfating. Max freeway range
is probably 35 miles now.
8/22/2012: Found 4 bad batteries and a
heat-damaged wire. I resurrected 2 of
them by de-sulfating them separately
and range has improved significantly.
The other 2 batteries need more time
coming back to life on the de-sulfating
machine. Range on the now 108V pack is
about 30 miles freeway.
9/25/2012: Range is crappy especially
Tuesdays. I don't know why. Every
day it does just fine. Tuesdays 18-
miles. Every other day 25-freeway
miles. Luckily I can plug in at work so
I can make
it 20 miles back home.
|Watt Hours/Mile||295 Wh/Mile |
Energy consumption is based off of a
kill-a-watt meter reading after a full
I get all my electricity from the grid-
tied solar panels on the house roof.
It was 325 Whr/Mile but after adding
the full undercarriage cover, it
dropped another 35 Whrs/mile. Wow!
5/12/2012: For some reason, it takes
more energy to charge my batteries all
the way now. I think they are over the
6/26/2012 In the past I only gave my
batteries a bulk charge on the
capacitive charger. Lead acid
batteries are nearly 100% efficient
during the bulk charge. Lately, I have
had to leave them longer in the top-off
charge stage (only 50% efficient) and
charge them more to get sufficient
range. Whr/mile is about 350. Yuck.
Peurkert effect has gotten worse too.
8/22/2012: After de-sulfating bad
batteries separately, the energy
consumption has gone back down. To my
surprise, my 20-mi commute on a 96V
pack (down 4 batteries) only took
250Wh/mi. I'm guessing that being
250lbs lighter at the time and driving
50-55mph the whole way helped.
9/25/2012: Battery pack takes lots more
energy to charge it. It used to only
5.8kWh to drive 20 miles. Now it takes
|Seating Capacity||3 adults uncomfortably|
|Curb Weight||3,600 Pounds (1,636 Kilograms)|
2700 lb truck less 500 ICE components.
Add 1240 lbs of lead, 180 lb motor, and
about 120 lbs of electronics and angle
iron. Removed tailgate, bumper and
spare tire (4/12/2012 removed flywheel
and clutch). I myself lost 15 lbs
converting this truck.
|Tires||P185/75R14 Hankook Optimo H724'a. |
Had these installed and they made a huge
difference in range over the original ones
that came with the truck.
|Conversion Time||3 months|
|Conversion Cost||$7944 including cost of donor vehicle. |
It's time to sell it though. All I am
asking for it is $5795
|Additional Features||Lead foot breaks and arm-strong steering. |
The nice new paint job is my handiwork.
I have never painted a car before.
It was really easy and turned out much
better than I would have imagined.
The Peurkert Effect is my enemy. For
extended range, I made aerodynamic
improvements. Smooth pizza pan hubcaps,
rear wheel skirts, front grill block
and added a full undercarriage cover.
The tail fins are for awesomeness only.
Update: 5/2012. I ripped out the
flywheel and clutch.
Now without 42 extra lbs of spinning
mass, it has better acceleration.
Shifting gears takes about 1 second
without a clutch.
6/26/2012 My motor is making a funny
squeaky sound at certain throttle levels
and another squeaky sound when coasting.
How annoying. I'm assuming my shaft
coupler has slipped and is rubbing
against the motor shaft. I may have
to tear into it to see what is going on.
Still drives great except for (in the
dead heat of summer) all my aero-mods
are causing slight overheating after
18 miles of strait freeway driving.
A small fan on the controller heat-sink
helps a lot.
8/22/2012: I accidentally tore up my
motor-transmission coupler. Luckily it
didn't damage the transmission shaft
spline. I put the flywheel and clutch
back in for the time being, until I can
build another coupler.
It's drivable but now I have a loud
vibration at certain RPM, caused by the
flywheel on an unbalanced shaft.
9/25/2012: Fixed driveshaft issues.
I also desulfated the bad batteries and
am back to running on 120V again. Range
is still only 30 miles and getting worse
as time goes on. I hope I can keep it
going until I finish my next EV (a Geo
Metro 60% complete). 20 freeway miles (each
way) is a long way to drive on an old pack.
12/15/2013: Vehicle has been retired.
I now exclusively drive the Geo Metro EV.
|I love driving fast and only hearing the sound of the wind. |
Rule#1: Save energy and money without sacrificing
convenience and luxury.