3. In the trunk for size comparisonHole for battery box4. Logisystems 156AFXHole for battery box, from belowEngine hoistEmpty engine bay
OwnerA F
LocationGrand Prairie, Texas US map
Web/EmailWebPage email image
Vehicle2002 Hyundai Elantra GT
5-door hatchback with a Prius-like rear profile
MotorNetgain WarP ImPulse 9 Series Wound DC
Quite a versatile and powerful motor. Recommended by "Build Your Own Electric Vehicle", second edition (2008), by Seth Leitman and Bob Brant.
DrivetrainWill use the existing 5-speed manual transmission.
ControllerLogisystems 156AFX
This controller can take 144-156 volts at up to 750 amps. This is probably overkill for my car. I could have gone with the 120-144 volt 550 amp Logisystems controller, but decided to go with the higher numbers. This way (I hope) the controller will be under less stress, operating at the lower end of its range.
Batteries12 Trojan T-1275, 12.00 Volt, Lead-Acid, Flooded
Not yet set in stone.

I decided to use lead-acid for my first battery pack, due to lower cost and to get more experience with the system. When that pack dies I may get something more expensive.

I am preliminarily choosing the Trojan T-1275 for several reasons: a) Trojan has a good track record in EV applications; b) I need 12 volt batteries to get my desired voltage without far exceeding 1000 lbs of lead; and c) according to my calculations, this battery should provide the range I want, at a battery cost of about $0.04 to $0.05 per mile (that is, just the cost of replacing the battery pack factored over the expected miles).
System Voltage144 Volts
Charger
Not yet determined
HeaterNot sure, but I would prefer to use the existing stock tubing and systems, and install a small electric water heater in the engine bay, rather than replacing the heater core with a ceramic heating element.
DC/DC ConverterIota 501-DLS-110-55-K
108VDC - 190VDC 55A DC/DC Converter Kit

I will likely pair this with a small 12V battery for the 12VDC systems.
InstrumentationI hope to re-use as much of the stock instrumentation as possible, but this may be more work than it's worth. I know I can keep the existing tachometer and speedometer; I'd like to use the fuel gauge as a SOC meter; and I may replace the temperature gauge with an ammeter.
Top SpeedGoal: highway speeds
AccelerationGoal: it should feel similar to the original
RangeGoal: at least 40 miles
EV Miles
Start:103,467 Miles (166,478 Kilometers)
 
    As of 10/22/2009
Seating Capacity5 adults
Curb Weight2,635 Pounds (1,197 Kilograms)
This is according to online specs. It is just a tad bit more than a 2002 Civic 4 door EX, the other car I was looking at, yet it feels much larger inside and outside.

Problem: I had it weighed on 2008-10-11 and the scale said it weighs 3100 lbs, as-is, stock. I highly doubt the scale is accurate; it was a CAT truck scale, and I think they overcompensate on the weight to avoid trucks getting fined for being overweight. Anyone know a better way to weigh cars?
TiresStock. When these wear out, I'll probably get low rolling resistance tires, but I don't plan to change the rims/hubs.
Conversion TimeI have been planning and ordering parts since October 2008. The original plan was to start removing the ICE in December, and have it driving sometime in March 2009. Unfortunately, I had an "interruption in my income stream" (job layoff) so I had to postpone my plans. The project is now back on track as of October 2009.

I am not tracking the hours spent... yet.
Conversion CostBudget is $6-7K, for conversion, plus about $2K for batteries. The car itself cost me about $4K. Total: about $12-13K.
Additional FeaturesWill have power brakes.

Hoping to restore the A/C and power steering. For now, I'm saving the existing power steering pump and A/C compressor, and plan to run them off a pulley on the tail end of the motor. There are some tradeoffs to doing it this way, but should be good enough. If it doesn't work very well I'll have to replace with all-electric systems.
For my first conversion, I started by researching highly rated used cars. To my surprise, the 2001-2006 Hyundai Elantra was picked as the "used car best bet" by Edmunds.com ( WebPage ) in the Compact Sedan category, for its reliability and overall value. I was expecting to see a Civic in that slot. However, as I have researched it more, it seems an ideal candidate for conversion.

I wanted something clean and relatively recent, as I hope to use it for many years to come and I don't want to bother with reconditioning the vehicle. (Converting it is already a big enough commitment!) The Elantra GT is sporty, yet affordable enough that I could get one with leather, power everything, moonroof, and still in great condition. It is a five-door hatchback, with a profile that looks almost like the Prius in the back. This profile seems to be more aerodynamic, with a drag coefficient of 0.33, probably contributing to its good gas mileage. This profile also gives lots of trunk room for batteries and still leaves storage room for other things. The car is light, almost as light as the Civic I was looking at, yet much more roomy inside. The rolling resistance seems low. Overall it seems to be almost made for this conversion, as long as the reliability holds up as the reviews have said.

Many thanks to North Texas Electric Auto Association (NTEAA; WebPage ) for all the help and tips.

code by jerry