| Owner | Ellis Madsen |
|---|---|
| Owner's Other EVs | LowTrike Brico v2.0 |
| Location | Louisville, Kentucky US map |
| | |
| Vehicle | 1958 NSU Female Bicycle This is a conversion of a one-speed female or step- through bicycle using a donor rear wheel as the front electric powered wheel. It is a hybrid: it can use electric power, pedal power or both simultaneously. It was made using only hand tools including hacksaw, wrenches, bolts, and power drill. |
| Motor | Has 99:11 gear down to a 9 tooth bicycle sprocket Permanent Magnet DC Motor RPM: 2750; sprocket RPM: 382. Dimension: 4.25” diameter x 2.75” long 4..5” long including transmission and output shaft. Three mounting holes. |
| Drivetrain | There are two separate drive trains. The first is the pedal system of the main bicycle, which is not at all interfered with by the other, electric drive train. The electric drive train operates only on the front wheel by a bicycle chain. |
| Controller | hand made with three forward values: 12V, 18V, 24V This is a hand-made switch with three values. The contactors are made of bicycle chain links. It is the same controller I used on the Low Trike. See the attached diagram. |
| Batteries | 20 10000 mA, 1.20 Volt, Nickel-Metal Hydride I used 20 D-cells in 4 modules of 5 batteries. I built a battery holder using bungy cords to hold them in. Each module is a unit that has connectors to respectively the charger or the controller. Since the controller uses; the first two modules more often that than the third, which itself is used more than the fourth (as the vehicle accelerates), the order of modules must be rotated periodically to achieve a similar discharge of all the modules. |
| System Voltage | 24 Volts |
| Charger | hand made from charging modules I built a charger that plugs into the 4 connectors form the battery modules. There are 2 connectors in parallel form 2 modules. These are very low amperage maybe 0.1A so it takes a LONG time to charge the battery modules. The charger modules automatically measure the charge and voltage of the batteries they are charging and the LED glows when fully charged. 7.2V max. |
| Heater | none |
| DC/DC Converter | none |
| Instrumentation | hand held multimeter, if I don’t forget to bring it along. |
| Top Speed | 15 MPH (24 KPH) fast enough for me, and fast enough to brake. |
| Acceleration | not great, but better when pedaling. |
| Range | 12 Miles (19 Kilometers) estimated |
| Watt Hours/Mile | All calculated. 10A X 24V = 240 W. I figure 0.9 hour’s range for ca. 13 Miles, with a generous fudge factor. |
| Seating Capacity | 1 |
| Curb Weight | 35 Pounds (15 Kilograms) estimated |
| Tires | Rear is 27 inch. I used a 26” front wheel from the donor. |
| Conversion Time | about one month of part-time garage work; maybe 50 hours |
| Conversion Cost | Motor: $90. Batteries: ~$160. Chain: $5. Turnbuckles: $8. You could use 4 lead acid batteries of 6V each with the same controllers. I didn't have to pay for the bicycles |
| Additional Features | This was designed to be as cheap as I could make it. I had the basic bicycle—something of a collector’s item—from my days in Germany and the donor rear wheel for the front electric wheel was from a freebee I picked up on Junk Day. The special features include the hand-made controller—you could also use a more traditional, and more continuous, commercially available controller and handle potentiometer. The other feature is the ability to use the turnbuckles to tension the chain when you are fitting it around the front wheel gear and the motor drive gear. This would, furthermore, allow you to change the gear ratios slightly between trips, but I have never don that. |
| I tried to make the cheapest electric conversion for a bicycle that I could. In fact you could come in at only a bit more if you bought a front wheel hub motor conversion-- with batteries--and with less work. | |



